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We've all studied the evolution of our planet from the recession of the glaciers to the creation of oceans, seas and landmasses. We learned of the natural progression of development from willows and alders to evergreens and hardwoods. Amazingly, during our hikes, we were seeing this firsthand. In a few nautical miles you can experience a cratered, barren moonscape, frozen tundra, developing grasslands and a lush rainforest.

Guyot Glacier and Falls

On kayaking days we would set a course for one of the faces of either the Guyot or Yahtse Glaciers. To reach these destinations we circuitously paddled around the multitude of icebergs in Icy Bay. At first, it is quite disconcerting. One minute an iceberg is doing a delicate dance and the next it is turning, breaking apart and spinning with a thunderous roar. Our Klepper kayaks were amazingly durable. At first I held my breath when we brushed against relatively smaller pieces. We had been warned to be alert for razor sharp edges - perfect for slicing the side of a canvas boat. How many minutes could a person survive when accidentally dumped into the frigid water?

As we became more comfortable negotiating our way around, each floating object seemed to take on a magical quality of its own. Each incredibly sculpted iceberg was more beautiful than the next. Ranging in shape, size and color - from white or transparent to rich aqua or gray and even black - your imagination went wild.

From a distance, a glacier simply looks like a smooth field of snow. Closer inspection reveals an uneven texture, almost like a collection of miniature mountains. In reality, a glacier is comprised of masses of huge ice crystals precariously balanced on each other. Each piece totally dependant on the other. Changes in pressure, gravity or elements cause the structure to constantly shift. This internal movement results in allowing formerly secure sections to break off or "calve". Sometimes small portions crumble away. Other times it appears as a mini avalanche. More often, a huge section will break off accompanied by a shockingly thunderous boom. It is common to witness pieces the size of a house breaking away. These "calving" pieces then become icebergs. It was fascinating to sit in our boats, at the face of the glacier, and watch the incredible "calving" display.

At first, I really didn't think I would survive all 9 days. This was way more than I had bargained for! Between the strenuous daily workouts, the constant "schlepping" (kayaks, gear, etc.), the misperception of time of day (it is daylight 18 hours a day, and at that, the sun merely dips for 6 hours never really darkening the sky), the rain, the cold, the wet, the sand - I was beyond exhaustion and mentally counting down the days. This wasn't "Survivor" - it was supposed to be a vacation!

Our greatest challenge came as we attempted to reach our final campsite and pick up point. We had paddled several miles heading out of Icy Bay toward the Pacific Ocean. The tide schedule permitted only a small window of opportunity to reach Key Line Point. Suddenly, the cold rain turned into sleet and the calm water became turbulent. Waves began breaking over the top of our kayaks. We fought to keep our boats in close proximity to each other. The geography became hard to distinguish and we struggled to find our landing point. Crunch time. The adrenaline pumping, we paddled hard. We had to stay upright and avoid swamping our craft. We became a fine tuned team - rising to the challenge. Cold, wet, stiff and exhausted, we made it to shore!

The only resident family in all of Icy Bay had watched in astonishment as we battled our way through the rough water and terrible weather. As we attempted to get our boats and gear to safe ground, two ATV's with what looked like bathtubs on wheels in tow roared out to the point. Our rescuers hauled us and our gear, out of the hail, out of the cold, to their warm, dry cabin. Never has a wood burning stove and an outhouse ever looked so good! We were treated to genuine Alaskan hospitality.

What could have been a disastrous ending turned out to be a unique and wonderful final experience for our trip. Our kind hosts unquestionably welcomed all 12 of us into their home. A family of six, they lived at the mouth of Icy Bay from spring to fall. Their cabin was located in a lush, rainforest environment rich with vegetation and wildlife. They made their living primarily as hunting guides but catered to fishermen and eco-tourists as well. When the weather finally calmed, our hosts lead us on a wonderful nature walk. We bushwhacked our way through the dense forest. We picked and ate salmonberries. We viewed scenic valleys rich with wildlife. They hauled us by ATV and "portable tubs" (actually carriers for the meat of freshly killed bear and moose during hunting excursions) to the shore of the Pacific Ocean. We hiked along the beach followed by curious seals. We dug for clams. Picked strawberries. Observed beautifully marked waterfowl. Eagles flew overhead. And at last, watched a bear frolicking down the beach. When the bush planes took off for our journey home, our Alaskan friends waved goodbye. With a smile I looked down realizing I had finally seen the Alaska I had imagined AND had experienced quite an adventure as well!

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